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You are here: Everest Home >>South Col Climb >>Gear on Everest
Gear on Everest
Footwear
[ ] Double Plastic Climbing Boots with Aveolite Liners. Good quality
plastic shells with inner boots. Avoid tight fit with heavy socks. Suggested:
Koflach Artis Expedition, Scarpa Invernos, or One Sport Everest.
[ ] Fully Insulated Overboots. Suggested: 40 Below K2 Overboots,
Outdoor Research Brooks Rangers. Not needed with One Sport Everest.
[ ] Light hiking boots.
[ ] Crampons. With "step-in" bindings and flat rather than "cookie
cutter" frame rails. Suggested: Charlet Moser Super 12 Rapidfix Lanieres,
Grivel G12 New-Matic, or Black Diamond Sabertooth.
[ ] Gaiters. Suggested: Outdoor Research Expedition "Crocodiles."
Not needed with One Sport Everest Boots.
[ ] Booties. Polarguard. Optional.
[ ] Wool or pile socks. 4 pair of heavyweight wool or synthetic socks
(wool is warmer) to be worn over the liner socks. When layering socks,
check fit over feet and inside boots. Remember to keep one fresh, dry pair
of socks available at all times.
[ ] Liner Socks. 4 pair of smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene to be
worn next to the skin. This reduces incidence of blisters and hotspots.
[ ] Vapor barrier socks. Optional.
Climbing Tools
[ ] Ice Axe with Leash. General mountaineering tool. Sizing is important:
under 5'7" use a 60cm tool; 5'7"- 6'1" use a 65cm tool; over 6'1" use a 70cm
tool. (Too short is preferable to too long). Suggested: SMC Himalayan or
Grivel Pamir.
[ ] Carabiners (4) Locking; (6) Regular. 2 HMS Twistlock & 2 small
screwgate lockers; 6 standard ovals recommended.
[ ] Ascenders (2). Petzl recommended. One right and one left.
[ ] Rappel device. 1 Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid.
[ ] Perlon. 40 ft of flexible 6mm.
[ ] Alpine Climbing Harness. Harness should fit over all clothing, have
gear loops, adjustable leg loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang
suspended in. Make sure you can get into the harness without having to
step through any part of it. Suggested: Black Diamond Bod Harness or
Alpine Bod with modification.
[ ] Adjustable Ski/Trekking Poles. Optional, but recommended.
Suggested: Leki, Life-Link.
Technical Clothing
[ ] Expedition-weight underwear. 1 pair Polypro or Capilene.
[ ] Lightweight Underwear. 2-3 pair top & bottom, Capilene, other
synthetic or wool. No Cotton. Lightweight is preferable as it is more
versatile (worn single in warmer conditions and double layer for colder).
Zip-T-neck tops allow more ventilation options. One set of white for
intense sunny days on the glacier and one pair of dark for faster drying
gives the most versatility. Suggested: The North Face Micronamics, Marmot
DriClime, or Patagonia Capilene.
[ ] Pile Jacket. Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300). A full-zip version
is easier to put on and has better ventilation than a pullover. Windstopper
fleece is NOT recommended due to reduced breathability. Suggested: The North
Face Polar Sun or equivalent.
[ ] Pile Pants. Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300) with full separating
side zippers (This is very important for ventilation and for ease of
dressing up or down when conditions change in the middle of a climb).
Suggested: The North Face Polar Sun or equivalent.
[ ] Down Pants. To fit over insulation layers. Outer shell must be
windproof. Suggested: Feathered Friends Helios or Volant.
[ ] Down Parka. (Fully Baffled, Expedition-Weight, must have good hood)
Suggested: The North Face Baltoro, Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero, Marmot
8000meter, or Feathered Friends Rock & Ice. ( Full down suit is recommended.
Suggested: The North Face, Feathered Friends, and Mountain Hardwear
[ ] Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with hood.
(Bibs recommended) For the jacket we highly recommend a long front zipper, a
roomy rather than snug fit and underarm zips which go well below the armpit.
We also require full separating side zippers on the pants. Suggested:
The North Face Mountain Bib or Mountain Light Pant, Mountain Hardwear Exposure Bib or
Ethereal Pant.
Sleeping
[ ] Sleeping Bag. (Expedition quality rated to at least -30°F).
Goose down to minimize bulk & weight. Suggested: The North Face Inferno,
Feathered Friends Snow Goose, or Marmot Cwm.
[ ] 2 Sleeping Pads. One, 3/4 or full-length, closed-cell foam Ridge Rest
and One, 3/4 length or full-length Therma-Rest with repair kit.
Mitts & Gloves
[ ] 2 Pair Synthetic Gloves. Bunting or fleece gloves which will fit
comfortably inside mitts. A heavier fleece will do a better job of keeping
hands warmer when wet than lighter polypropylene or Capilene. Suggested:
The North Face, Patagonia.
[ ] 2 Pair Pile Mitts and Gore-Tex Overmitts. Outdoor Research
Expeditions with double liners or The North Face down mitts. Should be big enough
so that gloves fit inside pile liners.
[ ] Hand warmer. Optional.
Head Gear
[ ] Baseball cap or other sun hat. One with a good visor to shade the
nose and eyes. Include a bandanna to shade the neck.
[ ] Wool or pile ski hat. Make sure ears are covered.
[ ] Balaclava (1) Heavy weight, (1) Lightweight.
Suggested: The North Face. Heavyweight. Must fit over lightweight.
[ ] Neoprene face mask. Optional
[ ] Headlamp (Plenty of extra bulbs & batteries).
Suggested: Petzl Zoom or Artic.
[ ] 2 Pairs of glacier glasses. 100% UV, high-quality optical lenses
designed for mountain use, must have full side covers. We highly recommend a
removable nose guard. Suggested: Bollé, RayBan, Julbo Round "Arc." If you
wear contact lenses we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses, it is a
good idea to have these with "photo-gray" or equivalent light-sensitive
material so they can double as emergency sunglasses. If you wear glasses, we
recommend prescription glacier glasses (dark gray or green). No more than
6% light transmission.
[ ] Ski Goggles, 1 pair. 100% UV & IR. Bollé's Chrono work well.
Climbers with glasses, try X-700, they fit over glasses.
Camping
[ ] Backpack. Internal frame pack expandable to 6,000 cu.in.
Keep it simple and light, avoid unnecessary zippers, etc., which add weight.
Recommended: The North Face, Kelty, Gregory.
[ ] Daypack. Optional for trekking days.
[ ] Tents. VE-25 (The North Face) and Evolution 45.
[ ] C2 Group Tent. Cabela's 8-man tent.
[ ] Stoves. MSR Rapid Fire.
[ ] Swiss Army knife.
[ ] Bic Lighter.
[ ] 1 Liter Thermos.
[ ] Pots for cooking. C3 and C4 - MSR Blacklight Guide model.
[ ] Eating Gear:
Cup: 16oz. plastic with snap-on lid (retains heat well, is spill
resistant in the tent).
Spoon: Good quality tough plastic (lexan).
Bowl: Deep plastic with 2-3 cup capacity.
[ ] Water Bottles: 2 liters minimum capacity. One, 1.5 liter & One .5
liter wide-mouth. Hunnersdorf are recommended (they withstand temperature
extremes and abuse better than Nalgene)
No water bags or bladder systems, they freeze.
[ ] Pee Bottle (1 Liter). Large mouth water bottle. Mark bottle.
[ ] Pee Funnel (for women). Suggested: Freshette.
[ ] Sunscreen. SPF 40 or better, 4 small tubes.
[ ] Lipscreen. SPF 40 or better, at least 4 sticks.
[ ] Personal first aid kit. Aspirin, Moleskin, adhesive tape, Band-Aids,
personal medications.
Traveling
[ ] Large duffel bags. 2 for transporting gear.
[ ] Compression Stuff Sacks work well for reducing volume (optional)
Especially for sleeping bags and clothing.
[ ] 4 Plastic Bags. To line stuff sacks to keep gear dry and one large
enough to line pack. Trash Compactor bags work the best.
[ ] Travel clothes.
[ ] Toiletry bag. Include toilet paper.
[ ] Camera gear. Optional.
* Gear list courtesy of Alpine Ascents International
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