Broad Peak

It was a heartbreaking moment; silence and grief, a breeze and some clouds surrounding the mountain, growing endless into the sky. I have decided that my ascent of K2 is over at this time. I cannot continue while my friends, those who I came to climb the mountain with, very strong and technical climbers, are in such pain and going home. I have requested permission to the Liasion Officer to climb Broad Peak with Piotr Pustelnik, who is now starting the ascent.

If all goes well, I will go to Camp I and Camp II on the Abruzzi Ridge to bring down the tents, sleeping bags and food that were deposited there by my teammates, and in two days go with all my belongings to Broad Peak and, together with Piotr, attempt a quick ascent of that mountain.

"I cannot continue while my friends, those who I came to climb the mountain with, very strong and technical climbers are in such pain..."

I had never met Michelino, but his death and the other team members' decision to leave, the lack of human power to make a succesful, safe ascent, the dangerous conditions of the route, led me to leave the mountain this year.

However, attempting Broad Peak with a good friend and very experienced climber will be my tribute to Michelino.

God bless you.... Salaam Alay Kum (Peace be with you in Urdu) Ohm Mani Padme Hung (in Nepali).

— Tommy Heinrich, MountainZone.com Correspondent