16 APR 2001
By Joe Hartney
The seventh leg of our journey was an exciting crest traverse of the
Gallatin Range during which the succulent spring weather we'd been enjoying
lately was replaced by more winter-like conditions. Although the sun came
out right when we needed it most, every day included snow which piled up
quite heavily towards the end. The deep snow was tiresome to tour through
but very enjoyable to ski down. All in all, I think it was one of the best
tours I've ever done. Surrounded by the Absarokas to the east and Madison
Range west of us, views of countless peaks, bowls, valleys and meadows
constantly entertained us as we worked down the ridge crest. Knowing that we were facing south and heading towards home also inspired me to keep moving.
Day 1 - Heading out of Bozeman to start our trip southward, Tuesday morning
never looked so good. I'm already in a daydream. The sun is shining, no
one around. After parking the car, we headed up Hyalite Canyon towards the
crest of the Gallatins. By afternoon the skies grayed and a light snow
began falling. We've decided to camp at the Hyalite Reservoir for the
night.
Day 2 - From the reservoir, we continued up along a summer trail hammered by
snowmobiles to the base of Hyalite Peak. Snow is falling heavier today as
we make camp. The 'bilers said they were unable to surmount the peak due to
all the new snow. We are concerned about the stability of the snow but
we'll have to see what its like tomorrow.
Day 3 - A gift from the heavens awoke us today. Clear skies and calm winds.
Just what we needed to work up onto the ridge crest. The new snow was
surprising stable and allowed us safe access to Hyalite Peak. From the
summit we could see our route far to the south along the crest. No time to
waste on a sunny day as we scurried along the ridge. We knew from the maps
that a summer hiking trail follows the crest which comforted us, yet it
already has proven to be the most exciting 'trail' I've ever followed. The
ridge is sharp and falls steeply away on both sides. In places the wind has
scoured the west (windward) side to barren ground and created a sizable
cornice on the east (lee) side. Other sections have small trees covering
the ridge, making the traveling difficult.
Day 4 - Snow showers returned today, but are mild enough to negotiate the
ridge. We made very good headway along the ridge and have employed many
useful tactics for ridge traveling. Usually we stay on the scoured windward
side along the summer trail. Occasionally we venture on the very top being
careful not to get too close to the edge of the cornice which hangs out as
much as fifty over the void, dropping thousands of feet below. I find
myself being especially careful where I put my pack down, so as not to watch
it roll off into space. Although it would be nice not to have to carry the
pack any longer.
Day 5 - Today was probably one of the best days of whole journey thus far.
The skies cleared last night, creating a deep freeze of the warm snow. This
allowed us to glide fast along the icy surface and make many quick miles.
The overcast skies also hastened the dreaded afternoon melt of the spring
which meant smooth cruising all day. The trail also took us up and over The
Sentinel, an awe inspiring peak along the crest, which lead to Windy Pass
for the night. Snow showers have turned into storms and the white stuff is
piling up by the minute.
Day 6 - With the snow continuing heavy throughout the night into this
morning, we decided not to move today. Instead we slept in, ate, and skied
some powder. Without the burden of large packs, skiing the powder today
felt more like floating. We enjoyed it as much as possible, trying not to
think of tomorrow when we will have to start breaking trail through it.
Day 7 - Back to reality and hard work. The new snow has piled up deep and a
bit heavy. We are breaking trail to our knees and sometimes up to the hip
in drifts. I haven't seen my skis all day and sometimes I wonder if they
are still attached when I sink up to my waist. It feels like trying to walk
through pudding, a great workout, but I think my hip flexors are about to
detach.
Day 8 - We found our exit today via the Buffalo Horn Creek. Still a bit
north of West Yellowstone, but much more appealing than wading through the
heavy powder for the next several weeks. After making our way through
Fortress Mountain, we followed snowmobile tracks all the way to the Gallatin
River and the highway. Hitchhiking back to Bozeman for the car was looking
pretty slow until we got a key ride to Big Sky Ski Resort. From there we
were quickly escorted back to Bozeman by some friendly locals Hilary and
Stefanie. After offering some gas money for the ride, Hilary quickly
responded, "Money talks, but it don't sing and dance and it can't walk!" A
quote from Neil Diamond. As they kindly dropped us off at our desired
location in Bozeman, all I could respond was "Forever in Blue Jeans!" I
supposed no matter where you are in life, you're never far from a Neil
Diamond fan. And that gives me hope.
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