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23 MAR 2001
Viesturs
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For 2001 I will attempt two 8000-meter peaks in tandem. We will utilize the acclimatization of the first ascent to benefit the rapid ascent of a second peak. This is a technique that I have used several times before with success. Everest/Lhotse in 1994, Everest/Makalu/GI/GII in 1995, Everest/Broad Peak in 1997, and Manaslu/Dhualagiri in 1999. In 2001 I hope to climb Shishapangma (8046m) and thereafter Nanga Parbat (8125).
The primary goals are to climb both peaks as a team of two, with the lightest equipment available, minimal camps, without the use of supplemental oxygen, and without Sherpa support. The ascent of Nanga Parbat is to be done in pure alpine style- a single 3-4 day push up the mountain moving our supplies with us and without fixed camps. I believe these techniques provide a challenge physically. They also push the limits of motivation and planning. By minimizing the time spent on the routes and at high altitudes we can also minimize the risks by being less exposed to objective hazards.
Our first objective is to climb Shishapangma (Tibet) during mid-late April. We will travel to Nepal and then cross into Tibet for the drive to Base Camp. My partner and I are planning a lightweight ascent of the NE ridge. Our three camps will be established during the first 10-14 days of the climb and we then plan to make a summit bid several days later. After this climb we will return home to wait for the optimal climbing season in Pakistan which occurs during mid June to late July.
We will then travel to Pakistan to attempt Nanga Parbat via the Kinshoffer Route on the Diamir Face. This will be approximately 4 weeks after our ascent of Shishapangma, but there should still be some lingering acclimatization. The tandem ascents of Makalu/GII in 1995 were separated by 5 weeks and we were still acclimated enough to do a 4 day alpine style ascent of GII. Assuming this, we will attempt a 3-4 day alpine style ascent of Nanga Parbat. Carrying all of our supplies we will attempt the Kinshoffer Route in a single push with 2 or 3 camps along the way before attempting the summit. This ascent time could be lengthened due to the necessity of fixing rope on part of the ridge, poor weather and conditions, or lack of acclimatization. We plan to return to the States by mid July.
— Ed Viesturs, MountainZone.com Correspondent
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