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Over the course of history, the border between France and Spain has
been shuffled many times. Its latest incarnation connects the highest peaks of the mountain range, The Pirineos, that
separate the two countries. The wilderness along the border attracts outdoor enthusiasts from France in the north and
Spain in the south. There we meet tourists, alpinists, climbers, photographers, and skiers from around the world who
come to take in the grandeur of the region's majestic peaks, green meadows, ice waterfalls and inviting picnic spots.
A rather cold area with rough terrain, the Pirineos weren't really explored until late
last century. The Ordesa Valley, for example, wasn't made a national park until 1918, when its geology and landscape
were finally mapped and appreciated. Not much has changed in the park since then, except maybe that the dominant
species in the park is now Homo sapiens. Still there are no shortages of wild goats and other animals, as well as an
extraordinary population of alpine flora. All this, including the Homo sapien, is now protected by law.
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In Spain, we make it a habit to "bridge" our work holidays. If I have Tuesday or
Thurday off, I'll also take Monday or Wednesday and arrange a little vacation. That being the case, the Ordesa Valley
is a paradise for three weighed-down young students. Defying meteorological predictions, we head for the Valley,
specifically to the Park's Goriz hut with clear goals in mind: to sit in the sun, cook lots of spaghetti and take
photos. Ah, yes, and to climb a little - without getting too tired, of course.
From the Goriz hut there are hikes for every taste and level of difficulty, high
mountain scrambles, walks through rolling meadows and skiing. You don't need to be a superhero to make it to the hut.
It's a pleasant stroll between the waterfalls of a sheer valley. It can take anywhere from three to six hours,
depending on how fit you are and how much spaghetti you're carrying.
The park has many other trails as well, but this is the most travelled, because it
follows the Arazas River. Some of the walls that line the valley are traced by unlikely zigzag paths, advisable only
to reckless mountaineers.
But back to us, the three young students...arriving at the hut, we were greeted by 30
guards from the high mountain rescue group practicing their stunts. We were a little intimidated by their physical
prowess, but they seemed nice enough and we were soon caught up in conversation with them.
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The next morning we rose early, like good mountaineers. We left our
sleeping bags at 5 a.m. with the intention of ascending Mount Perdido, at 3355M (11,007 ft). We'd been assured that
crampons and an ice axe would be neccessary, but we were resolute not to use them. We wanted our climb to have a more
"personal touch." So, we defrosted the zipper of our tent and headed out, navigating by the light of our headlamps.
There were some great photo opportunities, but the cold kept us shaking too much to hold a camera still. We thought
fondly of the tripod at home in Madrid.
We climbed up, without a break, until dawn. After a light breakfast and a few photos, we
headed for the base of Monte Perdido, close to a small, frozen lake. With a glance over our shoulders, we saw we were
being followed by the burly rescue crew. They were ascending in a very speedy, tidy line, along the tracks we cleared
for them in the snow.
This now became a matter of pride - we had to reach the summit first! We started scaling
an arret, a corner of snow sticking up from the side of the mountain. At last, after three hours of gasping, we
reached the summit. What did we see? Everything!!! And we didn't even need the crampons.
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scampered back down, leaving us somewhat amazed. Rather humbled, we trekked to another peak, the Cilindro de Marbore
at 3335 M, and then returned to the hut. Though we were actually bedding down in a tent nearby, the hut manager let us
rest and cook inside the building. That afternoon, we set out on a hike. We were moving slowly until we realized
there was a storm overhead which set us off running back to the hut, where it began snowing upon our arrival. There
are few greater pleasures than spending an evening watching snow fall, telling mountain tales (half of them
half-truths) and gobbling chocolate. When the snowfall slowed up a bit, we returned to our "comfortable" tent.
The next morning we dug ourselves out of the snow, packed up the tent and hiked back
out, a little grumpy. The return is never as jovial as the trip out, so I'll save you that story. Let's just say we
made it home to Madrid and the tripod.
— Nacho del Valle, Mountain Zone Contributor
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lodging
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The villages surrounding the Ordesa Valley (Torla, Broto, Linas de Broto, Oto,
Bielsa) offer little camping and few hotels.
Inside the park, there are several cabins in good order. Camping is allowed in designated areas. Information
and parking are available at the Reception House.
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maps & guides
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Guia cartografica of Editorial Alpina. Map 1:40000
and guide with walks and climbs.
Carte de randonees number 4 of the french IGN. Map 1:50000
Both can be bought in nearby villages and in the Goriz hut.
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climate
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Ordesa Valley's mountain climate produces chilly
winters with an abundance of ice and snow, while summers are hot with frequent
storms.
Be prepared for sudden changes of weather!!
At any moment the Ordesa Valley hiker may be surprised by a shower of rain or snow, depending on the time of year.
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public transport
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Torla is the town nearest to Ordesa Valley National Park (approx. 2 km walk). There is a bus line that runs regularly
to Torla from Sabinanigo, which can be reached easily by train or bus from the larger cities of Huesca or
Zaragoza.
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rules
& regs
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There is a long list of prohibitions: no littering, no fires, no bathing, or using detergents... Dogs must be kept on
a leash and radios may be played at low volume. Sports are not allowed: delta wing, canoeing,
parapenting. Of course, hunting and fishing are forbidden, too.
It is recommended that warm clothing and shoes be worn year round. During the summer months, water should
always be on hand.
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Photos by
Nacho del Valle
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