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Mitch and I have come along way, through what seems to be a whole different world since I last wrote (Nankoweap Trail at the Grand Canyon). For the first time on this trek, I'm writing from Utah and today closes out our eighth week on the trail — it's day number 56. We spent seven weeks, 49 days, in the wondrous state of Arizona, and what a remarkable experience it was. I think I learned more about myself in those weeks than in any other single happening. Things at times got so intense that there simply wasn't time for clutter or baggage.

"At the campground, Roger, an ex-Alaskan salmon-boat skipper had hooked two 14-inch rainbow trout. He then hooked us up with the fish. Yummy!"

Anyway, we left the Grand Canyon, climbing the 4,900 vertical feet of the Nankoweap Trail; each carry 10 liters of water (oh joy). As soon as we reached Saddle Mountain, the Grand Canyon was gone —bam— no more canyons, no more vertical: the Arizona Strip. At least that's how it appeared at a glance.

Closer inspection revealed a huge gorge hidden in the mild topography of the strip. We were found by Glen, our resupply guy, and Rachel, Mitch's girlfriend, after some great new friends we met on Saddle Mountain figured out who they were and directed then to our camp. Thus, our streak of not seeing a single car was ended at 32 days, shortly followed by the end of a 33-day-long stint of traveling unsupported.

The strip proceeded to get bizarre for us. We took full advantage of the lodges we passed on our way to Lee's Ferry. Unfortunately, Highway 89A was the only reasonable route through the eastern end of this wide-open land. But these outposts were "civilization" to us; they meant decent food and a cold beer or two.

Here we met a fishing guide —yeah, fishing here in the desert — who we had run into before on our first trek. He had given us some cold beers on a remote dirt road near Kodachrome Basin. We got to return the favor. Then, as we're heading in to Lee's Ferry, a voice called out from a passing vehicle, 'hey, are you Mitch and Mike?' Turns out it's Mike Coltrin and a crew of truly hard-core Grand Canyon explorers — the Mike of the other Mike and Mitch we met earlier in the trek. Crazy.

We got to Lee's Ferry a day ahead of schedule and treated ourselves to a great day of doing nothing. At the campground, Roger, an ex-Alaskan salmon boat skipper had hooked two 14-inch rainbow trout. He then hooked us up with the fish. Yummy! He also hooked us up with his water filter, as ours was apparently left at our re-supply. I guess we owe him a big one!

Leaving Lee's Ferry, we entered into Paria Canyon, a popular backpacking destination. It was great. Cool pools to soak in, towering vertical — even overhanging — walls that constantly grew closer together as we walked up the length of the river gorge, finally forming a beautiful set of narrows, a deeply-entrenched wonderland of rock. The narrows also brought us back to Utah after the longest hiatus from the state that I've had since moving to Salt Lake City in 1990.

Six days after leaving Lee's Ferry, we popped out of the canyon and, surprise, another lodge! But this one was different: Paria Outpost and the adjoining Paria Canyon Guest Ranch showed us unbelievable hospitality, offering us lunch, dinner (what incredible BBQ!), shower, and a place to sleep. This was even after learning that all we had was a credit card, which they don't take. Talk about friendly folks!

Tomorrow we dive into the Grand Staircase, Escalante National Monument. The next day we meet our resupply, Glenn, with a 15-day load this time. That day is also our halfway point. It's hard to believe we've been out that long! It's hard to believe we've got that much more to see. Living large...Enjoy!

Until next time,

— Mike Coronella with Joe "Mitch" Mitchell, MountainZone.com Correspondents

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