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Kanab Creek led us through the layers of the plateau's history, step by step, layer by layer, until we were deeply engorged in a killer canyon, complete with a clear running stream, frogs, fish, a bazillion cactus and no sign of man. When we reached the Colorado River we started to feel like we were actually getting somewhere on our trek.

	Mitch and Mike's letter: delivered by mule

A tiring, tedious boulder-hopping day brought us seven miles up the side of the river to Deer Creek Falls, where we found the first people we'd seen in a week (they delivered prior letter). Then we found out what Grand Canyon backcountry is all about: steep climbs, steep descents, sharp rocks, sharp plants. Oh yeah, it's hot too. But that leaves out the cold, swift, steep Tapeats Creek that we hiked five miles up, frequently crossing and hoping to stay upright. Then, there's Saddle Canyon and its ice-cold, neck-deep pools that lead to insane, water-carved chutes to be climbed. But the payoff: Muav Saddle. We made it to our food cache. We spent two nights in a NPS (National Park Service) patrol cabin; views of where we came from and views of where we were going were spread all around. No one else had been to the cabin since last season and road access wasn't passable yet. That left us feeling like we were out in the middle of nowhere — just like we'd hoped!

"The quiet of the star-filled evening is broken only by the chirping of bats and the sound of yelling cougars — that's kind of unsettling, I must say, lying on the ground listening to cats that weigh near what I do!..."

Things got even tougher after that; a big-time exposure, complete with loose holds and hidden hazards (cactus and snakes) had to be passed to go on. So on we went, a route that few in their right mind would bother with. But that brought us to the flint — Tuna Saddle. Oh, the view! The quiet of the star-filled evening is broken only by the chirping of bats and the sound of yelling cougars — that's kind of unsettling, I must say, lying on the ground listening to cats that weigh near what I do!

We battled down Tuna Creek, to the Colorado River in a day. By now we both were well blistered, scratched, cut and bruised. Then came the hardest part of the trip, a three-hour-long battle along the side of the river all to get through one mile of the canyon's oldest rock, the Vishnu schist.

We would now meet the only people we'd seen in a week: Mitch and Mike! A couple of hot days climbing from river to the Tonto Platform (and back) brought us to where we are now. It was great to see the lights of the South Rim Village, knowing that the people there had virtually no idea we were backpacking, right under their very noses.

We'll be heading to the south side of the park tomorrow. The way for the next week should be a bit easier with actual worn trails instead of ruthless bushwhacking. But you never know.

Until next time...

— Mike Coronella, with Joe "Mitch" Mitchell, MountainZone.com Correspondents

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