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Leaving Namche, Saying Goodbye
Namche - Wednesday, May 10, 2000

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Berg

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Hi Mountain Zone, it's the morning of the 10th and we're rolling out of Namche Bazaar, our last day of trekking as we head down to Lukla. This leaving Namche Bazaar business is always bittersweet and, I'll have to say, somewhat complicated because we have so many good friends here in town. As we walk out there's a lot of folks who will be saying goodbye, katas presented, best wishes exchanged.

It'll take a little while for this group to walk from the Panorama Lodge here near the top of Namche Bazaar down through the entire town and get on their way to Lukla. They'll need an early start though because it is a long walk all the way to Lukla. There'll be some tired and satisfied trekkers there at the end of today I'm sure.

This momo party, this momo-fest, last night at Phu Doma's, was a huge success. The entire group was down there, sitting around in a more traditional Sherpa lodge. Phu Doma was the very typical, very gracious Sherpani host. He was standing the entire evening, circulating saying, 'shay-shay,' which means more, more and gesturing for people to take more momos [Tibetan stuffed dumplings], more rice and dal vegetables — curry, this wonderful potato and meat curry she'd made. I think that the entire group, even though they've been eating a lot since they got to Namche, had the biggest meal of the trek and their bodies probably needed that after all these days of trekking, and certainly the warm, gracious reception in the Sherpa home was good for all of our spirits. Excellent evening last night.

We are saying goodbye now. I'm just watching people walk away from Cherub Zombu and Lhakpa Doma's Panorama Lodge. I'm going to walk right behind them, got to go say goodbye to one of my good buddies here. The lamas are still in town and they're doing a puja at another lodge, at this time. So these two big Tibetan mastiffs that they brought with them — these big dogs that you often see chained at the monasteries — accompanied some of the monks into town. And one of these guys I've made particularly good friends with and he's hanging out down there in the yard, so I'll go say goodbye to him. These big, ferocious animals are sort of legendary. They're the guard dogs at the monastery. They're always chained up and you're told to give them a wide berth and you're warned to stay away. And they do put on a pretty good show, they growl and bark and run at you — they're excellent guard dogs. But we aren't fooled [laughter], these are actually some sweet dogs, and a little scratching behind the ear and the next thing you know you're getting licked all over your face by one of these big Tibetan mastiffs and they're actually really great animals. I enjoy being around them.

So it's goodbye to Tibetan mastiffs, my buddy, and it's goodbye to many friends in Namche. It'll be a little while before I walk through town. But once I'm down the hill, it'll be nice to get down into that green valley below here. And, of course, eventually get into Lukla for a little party with the Sherpas tonight. And as you know, if we're lucky, for a flight tomorrow morning to Kathmandu.

— Wally Berg, Alpine Ascents Guide and MountainZone.com Correspondent

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