The Legends of Climbing (page 3 of 4)
 
   
Lou Whittaker: "What we're hearing here tonight proves that we've all been damn lucky, and maybe that's tempered by a little bit a good judgment as well. When you see a climber like Willi Unsoeld die in an avalanche on Mount Rainier, you have to admit that even the best of climbers can make mistakes.

There's a certain amount of exposure to risk that all climbers face, but there are risks on smaller mountains as well as on Everest. And turning around on Mount Rainier when conditions are bad is just as important — when in doubt, bail out. That's a good strategy on Everest and on smaller mountains. There's no loss of face or ego in turning around, it's just good judgment. If it doesn't look right today, it might tomorrow. Give yourself the opportunity to try in better conditions, rather than force your way up in dangerous conditions. And, the bigger the mountain, the more turn-arounds you'll face. Everybody at this table has turned around, and that's why we're still here tonight.

Remember, there are old climbers and bold climbers, but no old, bold climbers. That risk is always there. We've lost a lot of friends but we have a great time in the mountains. Security is a superstition, as Helen Keller said, it does not exist in nature. Avoiding danger is no safer than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."


Whittaker & Roskelley


  John Roskelley: "For me, it wasn't a matter of growing more mature. I turned to smaller mountains — between 20,000 and 24,000 feet — because I really enjoy alpine-style ascents on smaller mountains. Eight thousand meter peaks are one thing, but when you've got your heart set on a certain route or a certain side of the mountain, it's a whole different thing.

But, ironically, one of my most interesting experiences in the mountains had nothing to do with climbing. It was during an approach in the Himalaya, and I was walking along by myself listening to my Walkman. I crested a small hill and found myself face-to-face with a snow leopard. It was an incredible experience, and it shows how the good times had while climbing have as much to do with the places you go and people you go with as with the actual climbing.

Jim Wickwire & Ed Viesturs | Greg Child & Stacy Allison