Lowe

Saari

Alex Lowe
Just back up to Base Camp after three personally very fulfilling days down the hill. I often start into these trips knowing that there's an underlying purpose that transcends merely climbing a peak. I never know for sure what the defining event will be, but it always surfaces. Without a doubt, climbing and skiing Shishapangma captures my imagination, but that's not enough to make this trip truly worthwhile for me. This trip is about friendship, being in the hills with good friends and focusing on everyone's goals and aspirations.

So when Andrew shook my tent at one in the morning, the first night we were at Base Camp, suffering from undeniable pulmonary edema, I sensed a defining moment — an event that would clarify why I'm here. Andrew, typically self-effacing, apologized for waking me and, obviously shaken and frightened, said he was going to hike down and wanted me to know he was leaving camp. He actually thought I'd let him struggle down alone! I listened to his labored, sonorous breathing and knew it was time to get low as fast as possible. I jumped up, dressed hurriedly and rummaged around in six inches of new snow, loading the Gamow bag into my pack along with rudimentary bivy gear. Before leaving, I woke everyone to ensure that no one else was suffering similar problems, and Mike Brown magnanimously offered to help get Andrew down.

We set off into the snow, headlamps stabbing into the darkness, Andrew completely exhausted and needing to stop every few minutes. I gave him a dose of Nifedipine and prodded him on into the night. An hour before dawn, too exhausted to continue but a comforting 2,000 feet lower, we lay out our sleeping bags in the snow and allowed Andrew a precious, and much needed, two hours of sleep. I lay beside him listening for any worsening of the audible gurgle in his lungs. Convinced that his condition was not degrading and that we would make it down to Nyalam, I asked Mike to take the Gamow bag back up to Base Camp in case others needed its curative effects.

Andrew and I continued down for the next 10 hours. Andrew performing heroically. His condition was the culmination of a stomach bug that had plagued him since arriving in Tibet. He had kept nary a meal down for the previous four days and had struggled up to 17,000ft from 12,000ft in one epic day — completely dehydrated, exhausted and sick. With his reserves depleted, the altitude had him in a potential death grip. Two days in Nyalam recuperating has done wonders for Andrew.

Kris showed up last night having suffered from incessant headaches since arriving in Base Camp. Andrew will take a more conservative three days to return to Base Camp and, without doubt, will acclimatize and accomplish his goal. But for me, the opportunity to help a dear friend revealed what this trip is about for me. I want Andrew to succeed more than I care about summiting myself and look forward to getting on his acclimatization routine to ensure that this happens.

Base Camp

I came back up to Base Camp by myself today and then went for a lovely hike to 18,000ft towards Advance Base Camp with master Conrad, my best friend. The 7,000 feet of elevation gain has left me pleasantly tired and looking forward to a blissful night's sleep. But more than anything, I look forward to seeing Andrew back up here in our midst, in a couple more days, and enjoying the company of great friends in magic places.

Hans Saari
Had a mellow day at Base Camp with the crew. Drank a gallon of Tang. Tomorrow we are off to ABC. Cheers.

Quote of the day: "We have good karma, we just kind of karma-lized." — Mark Holbrook

— Alex Lowe and Hans Saari, MountainZone.com Correspondents

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