K2 with Broad Peak in Background

8/03/99
The day began, as it has for the past five days, with rain from 10pm to 7am. Suddenly around 9am, the sky started to turn blue and the peaks were finally visible. We all grew anxious and, to a certain extent, moody because we were at Base Camp and unable to take advantage of the weather high on the mountain. It remained fairly good through out the day, but very windy. It began to rain again in the evening and we were once again stuck in the clouds.

Today, Mr. Park and the Korean team left Base Camp. For this year, they have postponed their attempt of Broad Peak because of the bad weather and the sad events that happened to the their team. Their leader is an amazing man.

8/04/99
When we woke up at 6:30am it was still raining and rained almost the entire day. The extremely low clouds made us wonder if it was clear higher on the mountain.

At about 8:30am, five of the members of the Catalan team descended and left behind quite a low morale in the rest of us at Base Camp.

The French are preparing to leave tomorrow and they have burned 800 kilograms of rubbish at an amazing rate of 20 kilograms per hour. The French reported that it has exceeded their expectations and they are very excited with the prospects of Greg Mortenson taking charge of this after their departure.

"Ugar Uluocock, from Turkey, and Jay Sieger, who are part of my team, are the only ones left at the K2 Base Camp and have been granted permission to climb with the Korean team on the Cassin Route...."

Later in the afternoon, I went to K2 Base Camp where the Koreans are waiting for better conditions, but have not yet reached Camp III.

The Japanese team on the West Face is also leaving—unsuccessful in their attempts. It has also been reported that the Japanese team's cook died last week of high altitude sickness.

Ugar Uluocock, from Turkey, and Jay Sieger, who are part of my team, are the only ones left at the K2 Base Camp and have been granted permission to climb with the Korean team on the Cassin Route.

Micklnzitz, from Brazil, and Pepe Garges, from Spain, left a few days ago feeling the same way that myself and the other do: there is very little or no chance to reach the summit of K2 safely this year.

Right before leaving camp on K2, I decided to stop at a latrine. This latrine is built of three big rocks in which one squats on top of the rocks and "does their thing." However, as time goes by the ice around the latrine melts leaving a tall and unstable tower. When I stepped on top of the latrine one of the rocks suddenly slipped out from underneath my foot and I found myself airborne with my face going straight towards the tall, brown, and still smelly pile. Somehow, just before I was about to land in the pile, I was able to protect my face with my right hand. My hand sunk into the disgusting mass and knocked both of my forearms against the rock edges. The fall left me a bit out of breath, dirty, and with some bruises. Next time, I guess I will take a belay for this "action." A sh**ty way of ending the day, literally.

8/05/99
We woke up this morning with a completely blue sky and found that for the first time it had frozen overnight. So, Piotr and I have decided to leave for the higher camps. We hope to go 6,500 meters in one push. If the weather holds, then onto 7,200 meters and finally to the summit.

"So, Piotr and I have decided to leave for the higher camps. We hope to go 6,500 meters in one push...."

The rest of the team is waiting for the weather report from Spain. If the report is negative for the next four days, they intend to call the porters and leave camp. If the report is positive, they will try for the summit.

Piotr and I do not want to wait at Base Camp anymore for the forecast. We will determine the weather on the mountain. As it has always been for us, you cannot give up hope if you want to achieve a goal.

That is all for now. I will try and report to you as soon as I get back down from the mountain which, depending on the weather, may be anywhere from three to five days from now. I hope everything is well there.

This is Tommy Heinrich reporting from Broad Peak Base Camp.

— Tommy Heinrich, MountainZone.com Correspondent