Mortenson

Undaunted by nearby skirmishes, foreign climbers also entered the Karakorams with a bang in June. By June 29th, a record high eighty-two mountaineering expeditions registered with Pakistan's Ministry of Tourism this year. Only two expeditions have canceled their plans; American Heidi Howkins on K2 and a Slovak expedition.

Unlike India's reception of the Mujahadeen, foreign climbers were heartily welcomed by Pakistan's tourism industry, recovering from a loss in revenue the previous year. In 1998, half of the registered fifty eight expeditions in Pakistan were cancelled due to Pakistan and India's nuclear tests in June, American embassy bombings in Kenya and Tanzania and retaliatory US cruise missiles strikes on Bin Laden's Afghanistan training camps.

Ironically, local Pakistani officials point out that while only one foreign tourist has ever been murdered in northern Pakistan (Ned Gillette's tragic murder in August 1998) over two hundred forty foreigners have perished in the Karakoram mountains from climbing related falls, avalanches, illnesses and accidents.

Americans came to the Karakorams this year in record numbers, ignoring a March 28 US State Department advisory to stay away from Pakistan.I was fortunate to meet them all while they were in route to their climbs.

Alex Lowe is leading a North Face sponsored first ascent of Great TrangoWall's perilous NW 5,000 ft face (6,239 meters) with Jared Ogden and Mark Synott. Their route up the hideous vertical face was first scouted out in 1997 by Jared and Mark during a climb of Trango basin's Shipton Spire (5,987 meters).

Jared and Mark both knew they had seen perhaps the world's biggest vertical wall. For two years, they kept their goal a closely guarded secret. Unbeknownst to them, the Huber brothers from Munich had secret plans for the same route. When they heard about the American plans for the Great Trango, Thomas and Alex Huber rushed a six man German team to Pakistan six weeks early, enduring late winter snow storms to try scale the wall first. The race is on.

The German dash to Trango did not bother Alex, Mark and Jared. They have a blitzkrieg plan of their own. Mark says they can speed their ascent up "the Mother of all walls" by going "Capsule Style" and haul their equipment up with them. This will increase their summit chances, but leave no escape route below.

Their climb is stacked with hazards. Even Lloyds of London would not appreciate the risks the trio will have to overcome: double digit 5.11+ cruxes, three weeks on tiny portaledges watching ice chunks the size of trucks whizzing by, winds that will whip them around like kids on playground swings and hauling a precious 100 kg barrel of water up the face that will time capsule their three week effort. Alex says his main worry is not the climb or nearby war, "Its not easy to be away from my wife and kids for weeks at a time. I am lucky to be married to an incredible woman."

If they succeed, it will certainly close out the century as one of the greatest wall climbs ever. Alex, USA's preeminent alpinist, has no qualms. He keeps it all in a simple perspective, "For me, the greatest climber in the world is the one who is having fun."

Gasherbrum IV

Steve Swenson arrived in Pakistan on June 19th to begin his fourth attempt on Gasherbrum IV's (7,929 meters) complex S-SW route. He is joined by Andy De Klerk, Steve House and Charlie Mace, all seasoned alpinists who make up a formidable team. "Our route goes up a steep 2,000 ft snow pitch to a loose rock band where half the time holds flake off in your glove. The last 2,500 ft to the summit is hard marble rock with high 5th class cruxes. The higher you climb, the harder the moves get," says Steve.

"Our team is unique," says Charlie, "with combined skills to overcome the diversity of this high altitude technical route". Charlie, who has summitted K2, is superb at altitude. Steve Swenson knows GIV's every intimate pitch from previous climbs. Andy will fix the hard rock cruxes. Steve House can handle the technical ice. Swenson says, "the key success factor for our bid is to put together our individuals skills and strengths in a cohesive effort." This year, the GIV climbers are the Karakoram's most talented team, driven by Swenson's tenacity to overcome a sixteen-year obsession.

Steve Swenson is more determined than ever to succeed. With meticulous planning, meager rupees, seven Karakoram expeditions under his belt (including a K2 ascent), and favorable conditions due to light snowfalls last winter, Steve might finally leave his boot-step on GIV's summit soon.

Gasherbrum II

Brent Bishop is attempting Gasherbrum II (8,035 meters). After dodging terrifying rockfalls and even waterfalls on a sunbaked Eiger last fall, Brent says, "It will be refreshing to climb up a alpine slope with just an axe and crampon and enjoy the climb". A priority for Brent is to also continue his NIKE sponsored Karakoram porter-training program initiated in 1997. The program emphasizes conservation, hygiene, sanitation, first aid, cross-cultural awareness and crevasse rescue.

Besides the porter training program, he has helped local Balti porters with a incentive-based cleanup since 1997, modeled after his successful Everest cleanups run by Sherpas. "The Baltis have removed and recycled a staggering 20,000 + pounds of Karakoram basecamp garbage entirely on their own. This was done at a fraction of the cost of foreign 'environmental or cleanup' expeditions. Often, their cleanup efforts often fall short of their goals in pursuit of the summit," says Brent. He added, "Basically, I'm just a guy having fun climbing, being responsible and cleaning up."

Without the fanfare of several expeditions accompanied by web page gurus and cinematographers, Jimmy Chin and Brady Robinson quietly entered the Charakusa basin of Hushe valley for a two-month stay. In mid July, Evan Howe, Doug and Jed Workman will join them for the Mountain Hardwear sponsored adventure.

"We will be in climbing paradise surrounded by a dozen El Capitans and first ascents in every direction. Our main worry is to pick out names for the many routes that abound," said Brady "and as far as our personal safety, the war has not an issue since we arrived." Chin also agreed, " since day one, the Balti people welcomed us with open arms and incredible hospitality. We've postponed our climbing until next week to spend time with Hushe schoolchildren to set up an environmental education class."

Chris Boskoff, director of Seattle based Mountain Madness will lead a team of ten climbers on Gasherbrum II's standard route. "I enjoy helping others realize their dream of a lifetime. On GII, its about cracking the 8,000 meter mark. Watching it happen gives me great satisfaction," says Chris.When I asked Chris if she had fears about travelling in Pakistan, she replied, "The people here are great. And no where is the hospitality more overwhelming."

Dan Mazur continued his exploration of untrammeled routes and peaks in the Chinese Karakoram Shaksgam basin in April. "It's a wild, wild place," says Dan, "you could go months without seeing another soul". After summitting Everest, K2, Lhotse, Gasherbrum I and Makalu, Dan says he has no need for the numbers game, "the fun is to be with friends and share adventures where few have been before."

Michael Marsh is leading a Colorado Mountain Club expedition up Broad Peak (8,047 meters). Upon his arrival in Pakistan's capital city, Islamabad, Michael told me, "we're just here to have a good time in the Karakorams. Certainly Broad Peak is safer than downtown Denver."

Geoff Tabin MD, Burlington VT opthamolagist, plans an undisclosed first ascent in the Hushe Valley. His primary goal though is to continue his northern Pakistan eye care program and train Dr. Niaz Ali (the only eye doctor serving over 300,000 people). To keep his passions balanced, Geoff checks his fingertips often, "When my fingertips get soft from too much surgery, I climb. When my fingers get too callused from climbing, I rest them and do more cataract implants."

Heidi Howkins cancelled her K2 attempt for this summer. But Heidi still plans to climb K2 (no American woman has summitted K2 yet) and continue her "SupPorters" project, which supplies Balti porters with corporate donated tennis shoes, sunglasses, jackets and backpacks.

War or no war, the Karakoram climbing season is on. The Kashmir crisis may be front-page headlines across the world, but not one climber out of several hundred has high tailed it out of Pakistan.

While families, parents and spouses anxiously read the morning headlines, their loved ones are probably safely curled up in their sleeping bag with a good novel and cup of Chai having the time of their lives. It was a well-guarded secret until now.

This year's Karakoram climbing season will be one to follow. Superb climbing conditions prevail and plenty of summits will be reached. In the end, all these climbers can return home with the satisfying memories of a climb in the Karakorams " the world's greatest museum of shape and form."

— Greg Mortenson, MountainZone.com Correspondent