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Cozy Snow Cave at 16.2
Saturday, May 22, 1999 — 7:06pm (PST)

Wally
Berg
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Hi Mountain Zone, Wally Berg. I'm calling you from 16,200ft on the West Buttress of Denali, about 6pm on Saturday. As you know, we took off this morning planning to carry all the way to 17,000ft; across from this point on a notch, on the West Buttress, at 16,200, all the way across to where we usually use as High Camp, at 17,000ft, along on the other side of the West Buttress.

Not very good weather as we came up today and this crew was suffering under some heavy loads, as we moved our camp and all our climbing gear up to attempt our summit. So we have stopped here at 16.2, feeling really good about life at this point for a couple of reasons. One, we've upped the acclimatization ante considerably and I would have to say, most importantly, we managed to find a snow cave that I have used in past years — the thing's huge actually. When you are camping here, at this particular camp, it is pretty exposed. You can put tent platforms in, Pete Athans and I did it with our group here in '94, but wind is going to be a big factor and we don't have a very secure feeling about crawling in a tent in this exposed ridge up here.

These snow caves are great. This is one that's been maintained by groups over the years. We busted into it. My buddy Chris Morris helped me dig it. Busted into it and found large, really beautiful depth hoar crystals, which indicates nobody's been in it since last year. These things were very delicate and tremendous size. Very fascinating deal, busting into a place like that, and a very warm and cozy, cozy time for us as we move into here at 16.2.

Weather looks not particularly bad, but it is snowing a little and I'll have to keep you posted tomorrow. We're right where we want to be now. We'll move in a more reasonable day to 17,000 and, hopefully, as soon as day after tomorrow attempt the summit from there, weather permitting. Meantime, if we have to hang here, we will and I'll keep you posted on how we're all feeling and how everything is going.

Alpine Ascents Guide Wally Berg, MountainZone.com Correspondent



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