The Storms of Antarctica Part I It's a Bird, Not a Plane Editor's Note: For the past five years, Dave Hahn has spent much of the austral summer (November to January) managing Vinson Massif base camp for Adventure Network International, and guiding its clients to the summit. In this, his most recent column, Hahn shares some more of his experiences "on the ice," both at the Patriot Hills airstrip and farther afield.
My season of guiding on Vinson was a good one... it was sometimes tough physically, sometimes tough mentally; I was cold but not frozen; warm and cozy enough of the time; hypoxic when I was meant to be; thanked and befriended by a good number of my clients and fellow climbers; and, loathed and despised by acceptable numbers as well.
I was scared, worried, anxious, angry, bored, awed and elated for months on end. All that having been accomplished, it must now be time to get the heck out of Dodge. Or not... perhaps it is yet another opportunity to learn patience and restraint. The storm outside is just "mank" or "pants" or eight-eighths overcast consisting of cumulo-strato-cotton-marshmallow-nimbuli with some alto thrown in and a little light snow to boot. I don't know. You'd have to ask Lucy, over in the meteorological/communications tent, and she's English, so you'd have to listen carefully to her reply, and you'd have to dodge her left hook if you were the tenth person to ask her in the last 10 minutes, and you'd have to run fast if you were stupid enough to ask her what this weather was going to do an hour from now (Lucy observes the present, she doesn't predict the future...a good way to live).
I'd trip and stumble a few times in a hundred feet of walking, not being able to pick up the variations to the snow surface. And then I'd walk into the dining tent where 40 other folks are also ready to be done adventuring. They'd be talking, and reading and eating and sipping wine, but at least a couple of them would be saying (not necessarily in English), "I don't see why they couldn't land that Hercules plane in this weather..." Personally, I couldn't land a snowmobile in this weather. But that is beside the point. Folks want to travel. Well-meaning folks can drive us all around the bend by pointing at what passes for sky and saying over and over again; "It looks like it is getting better, don't you think so?" But the Vinson Guide has it easy in Patriot Hills Camp...Steve and Simon do the heavy lifting when it comes to making the calls on the flying conditions and taking the rap for good, safe, slow and conservative decisions for transcontinental flights. What it really comes down to though, is that this particular storm could really help out if it went away. That is obvious, we all want that. What is less obvious is that this storm could also put minds at ease just by hitting us with a little more oomph. When storms knock you from your feet and thrash you to within an inch of your life, you don't tend to worry much about the calendar. When it blows 80mph, you don't need a weatherman to tell you which way it blows. When your beard hurts because eight or 10 pounds of ice are hanging from it, you seldom concern yourself with picking an aisle or window seat on some hypothetical airplane. A real storm gives great focus to an otherwise cluttered mind.
So pilots and passengers piled out of the planes and were soon met by the local, well dressed, immaculately groomed locals. Penguins. The place was positively infested with them 15,207 of the big (up to about 90 lbs., four feet tall, teeth as sharp as Kukri Knives) critters known as Emperors. (Alright, no teeth, I get carried away) They weren't all so big, and that was one reason we'd flown 900 miles from Patriot Hills to make their acquaintance. Emperor chicks are small, cute, fluffy, photogenic and hard to find in the well-traveled and warm places on the planet. Our gang went bravely into the rookery, armed only with cameras and shooting roll after roll of film in an effort to keep the large waddling birds from charging. These penguin communes are not exactly quiet places. But most people find that the constant cacophony of moms, dads, chicks (and some swinging singles) yelling out for one another in bird language is eventually very soothing. Especially if you find Hitchcock movies to be soothing....
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