Today was going to be the day! I was going to lead the Canary Route on Castle Rock in Washington State, a 5.8 face overlooking the spectacular Tumwater Canyon. This was going to be no problem whatsoever. After all, I had done it on top rope a half dozen times.
I started up, placing each foot carefully. After twenty feet, I stopped at a fissure in the wall and tried to fit a wired nut in. Hmmm, doesn't look too good, I thought to myself. I climbed up another 10 feet and tried to place another nut. Still didn't look too good.
I climbed a bit higher, stopped, and looked down to the boulders next to my partner. Yee gads, it was a long way to fall! I moved a bit higher. I didn't remember this portion being so difficult. I moved my hand higher and then brought it back down and I started to sweat. My legs then started to shake. I was going to FALL and die, or so I thought.
Then I heard voices on the Saber ledge above me!
I yelled with desperation, "Hey! Could you give me a top rope?"
"No problem," the voice said from above me.
A second later I saw a beautiful red and blue rope with a biner tied to the end, snaking down toward me. I quickly grabbed the biner and clicked in. DA! DA! DA! Superman! I was up the remaining feet in less time than it takes me to climb the stairs in my house.
5.8 is a whole lot harder on the sharp end of the rope, especially when the sharp end is unprotected!
Anthony Mendoza, Living the Life with MountainZone.com